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If you need to repair your car’s air conditioning, we have all the parts you could want, including accumulators, actuators and compressors.
The most obvious valid reason for replacing a water pump would be an overheating incident due to actual or suspected water pump failure . You can of course improve your personal cooling a bit with various supplementary fan and evaporative solutions. Look up “swamp cooler” if interested, though I doubt you want to get quite that elaborate. Further to my last post, the bubbling coolant has continued but in all honesty I am not too fussed as long as the car can last me another 3-4 months. My main concern is that if I drive it without the internal fan on to accommodate for some of the extra heat, the temperature of the engine (on the dashboard, at least) begins to very slowly climb above 90 degrees. It remains on 90 if I keep the fan on, but the engine fan creates a hell of a noise (not that it matters if it is working). Now it is getting towards summer I am starting to get fed up of absolutely roasting in my car every time I go to/from work so am looking for an answer, however, given my problems with previous mechanics and the fact that I have already paid out a few hundred pounds on this issue I wanted to ask the advice of you guys before having a paid mechanic come and look again.If you had a water pump failure its a fair bet you had overheating. Head gasket or head failure is a common consequence of overheating, so no big surprise there. Make sure your engine is off and cool, the vehicle is in Park or Neutral, and the parking brake is set. I suppose I could mist water into the air intake to slightly reduce the risk but there's a bit too much happening as it is.
Heater in a car acts the same as the radiator under the bonnet, which is why when the engine starts overheating its a help to use the heater in the car on max hot to help keep engine cooler The puzzling aspect is the leak stopper suggestion. AFAIK there's no leak stopper to seal from within the combustion chamber (There are goos that are supposed to restore some compression but I THINK they are supposed to seal the rings). IIRC, the OP did not tell us the reasons for the water pump replacement, referring only to a coolant leak, but the reservoir blowing was said to follow-on from it, I wouldn't do that, and I probably wouldn't buy the kit they use, but it should be possible to adapt another form of pump.
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As well as the temperature issue, the engine seems to start struggling, stuttering/jerking a little when I am pulling away from idle or accelerating (particularly in low gears) after I have been driving for about 20-25mins, although varies depending on how hot of a day it is so I assume this relates to overheating? The motion is similar to that when you're close to stalling but not quite as bad yet. A colleague has suggested that it could be head gasket related, however this was previously ruled out by a mechanic (and I have hoped and prayed that it isn't as I don't want it to conk out entirely one day on my way to work/home). Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am desperately trying to keep the car going until Sept/Oct when I will be looking to replace it altogether. I can’t say that doesn’t happen, but I would have thought it was fairly unusual, since thermostat removal is/was quite a common bodge/workaround for overheating problems. The reservoir has a fill range marked on the side. If your engine is cold, the coolant level should be up to the cold fill line. In the winter, engines need to be stopped from freezing up and causing irreparable damage. You may need a replacement car cooling fan, car radiator, expansion tank, or intercooler, and at Halfords we’ve got it all. Car Air Conditioning The mechanic I used took another look at it today and has returned it to me stating that it is in fact a problem with the head, stating he ran some tests and found gas to be escaping and entering the coolant system. He has now offered a short term solution by saying he can apply some sort of leak repair stuff which requires the coolant system to be flushed then the additive put in with new coolant. Does anybody have any experience with this and if so, how long is it likely to withhold? My car is due to have it's MOT in February, how likely is it to pass this?
The OP is unlikely to want to bother with that though, especially as he already has some blowing from the coolant reservoir so couldn’t easily detect any local boiling due to modification. If it were mine I would keep a close eye on the coolant. Your engine will only overheat if you loose a significant amount I did, however, realise that there are sometimes no bleed points, because I think that's all I've ever had on any of my cars. Can't remember it being a problem before.
renewed on my diesel car last year and found the reservoir empty when I got home - the techy just hadn't run the engine enough for the thermostat to open fully. IF you aren''t losing'coolant, I don't quite see what the leak stopper is for. I suppose if an undetectable amount of coolant is passing into the combustion chamber some leak stopper would be drawn in too, but it doesn't seem very likely to seal against combustion pressures.
IF the water pump is belt driven, I suppose it might be possible to change the pulley to increase the pumping rate, but I doubt it would be worth the trouble. So I've recently had a coolant leak repaired on my 2008 model Ford fiesta where the mechanic noted that the water pump and thermostat needed replacing. Having had those replaced and my car returned to me, the leak has stopped however the coolant has begun to boil/bubble after driving the ~30 minute journey to/from work (~20 miles each way). Coolant also helps keep your engine working as efficiently as possible, helps keep its emissions low, and even helps provide that toasty heater air on cold days. If the coolant level is low, add the correct coolant to the reservoir (not the radiator itself). You can use diluted coolant by itself or a 50/50 mixture of concentrated coolant and distilled water.
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Never remove the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is running or still hot. Let it cool down first. If there was no overheating, the water pump replacement is a bit suspect, but is unlikely to have caused a head gasket failure, which seems to be suspected by the OP.
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