EBC Brakes DP41657R Yellowstuff Street and Track Brake Pad

Product Information

From what I can see from your pic the pads and discs looked to have gone off with excess heat, what happens then is they glaze, the glaze is really hard to clear, and that will be why even now on the road they are poor. I have had the same in the past. Yellowstuff performance range is a high friction aramid fiber pad, totally resistant to brake rotor vibration, and easy on rotors. Don't forget that most of the other pad options from the other manufacturers are in the same position regarding their road legal status (i.e. ALL Pagid RS, Ferodo DS, Carbon Lorraine, etc.). If this works well (not too much dust, etc), then when the Lancer's pads come up for replacement, I'll be putting in the Yellow Stuff in that one also. On a safe straight road with no cars close behind or in front at approx. 40-50 mph apply the brake to 30% or so pressure whilst continuing to press the accelerator to main vehicle speed for as long as safe to do so, you will need approximately a clear quarter mile to do this so make sure you have that. This will drag the brakes, get them hot and take them past the 400-500C level required for bed in and you may even smell brake odour. You may feel the pedal go a little spongy, if it gets too soft abort the process and start again later. What is too soft? Too soft means that you feel that the brakes are not responding well.

You CAN use the “ Real-world experienced driver – faster street bedding routine”- described above if you are bedding the pads in on the street When considering full-race use on lighter cars, Yellowstuff has been a strong favorite. It is also the choice of 90% of the Mazda MX5 Miata competitors in the UK race series, used in drifting and on kit carsYour pads should feel entirely different to before the process, they should feel sharp and much more responsive. This process is called eliminating “Green fade” by burning off those surface volatiles. EBC Brake Shop is not responsible for any additional costs as a result of extended delivery times, unless prior consent is given in writing by a member of EBC Brake Shop staff.

I think the 2-piston basically spreads the same hydraulic force over a greater area on the brake pad. Meaning on a "per sq inch" basis, the 2-piston version is doing less work. So it has more room before reaching its limits. Benefit = being able to more precisely control & hold the right amount of brake force, when braking hard. Main reason: I could not find a tuner (either local or remote) who would tune the ECU after a turbo add. I run both pads you mention with the exception that the Tarox Strada pads are the same compound characteristics and pedal feel and durability as Ferodo DS2500. Allow pads to cool for 15 minutes minimum after coasting to the pits allowing brakes to cool a little.

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If you drive aggressively or in a “Spirited” fashion on roads where it is safe to do so, after seating the pads to your rotors and certainly not before 300 miles of use , you should be prepared for the pad to emit an odour or even exhibit some smoke as the pads burn off what we call “surface volatiles”. Many faster drivers experience this in harder braking and criticize the pad whereas in fact, this is only part of the final high-end bedding in process as the pads see rotors temps of 400-500C for the first time (not normal in everyday driving). CookieYes sets this cookie to record the default button state of the corresponding category and the status of CCPA. It works only in coordination with the primary cookie. Once seated any brake pad made by EBC or anyone else, performs better once the pad goes through heat curing or what we call “Green Fade” which happens during its first severe use. Mr Blinky I like these brakes, a lot. I didn't want to review them until I had done 1000 miles on them, and now I have. These are a really nice replacement for OEM. Fitting was a breeze. they really did fit like a glove. Really easy to get on and a nice snug fit (all 4 corners - discs and pads).

Find this complicated? – we tend to agree but all organic pads no matter which brand do need some bedding in to avoid loss of brake and a lot depends on rotor condition, the slightest hollow of the rotor surface will extend the bed in times a lot. So being accurate is important. For folks who are curious about the Lancer 2.4L GTS turbo add-on: No, in the end, I did not go through with it. I would not recommend the Orangestuff as they are not suitable for road use as they take a couple of pedal applications to produce any retardation - which is fine in a race situation as you're on/off all the time, but not so good on the road/motorway where you may not touch the pedal for 5-60 minutes. What I EXPECTED: The boost in braking power I felt in Step1, I was expecting to FEEL a similar boost in brake power with this step2 change. Step1: Changed all four pads from OEM pad to Red Stuff pad. In that same change, also replaced all 4 rotors with new OEM rotors.Not only a high friction pad but very resistant to heat and lots of heavy braking means that Yellowstuff has been used with great success in fast street cars and Police vehicle brakes alike. We call this real world as it explains in a realistic and safe way how to accelerate this bed in the process. First, make sure you achieve the pad seating – we’re now going to bed the pads in with what we can describe as using “engine torque”.