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We also measure the Power with our systems which is essentially the error from the reference sphere to the test optic. The reference sphere we use on our system is a very high quality sphere so the closer to zero the Power, the less error between the 2 elements thus ensuring a higher quality optical surface. With 2 strips of double-sided adhesive tape of 2-3mm wide, this cover plate can be fixed without damaging the original rear mirror. Other measurements such as the PV and RMS are important too. With these measurements, the lower the number the better as it shows less curvature on the lens. The flatter an optical lens, the better it will perform. The PV rating (Peak To Valley) is a measurement from the highest point (Peak) to the lowest point (Valley). From this we get the RMS (Root, Mean, Square). This is a similar figure to the PV and measured exactly the same way. The RMS is basically an average height difference from the PV so again, the lower the better. As you can see form the example below, we measured an RMS of just 0.027 wave which is a very good value.
Did you ever think that a webcam can also be used as an online mirror? Anyway, I’m ready to bet that it’s a lot easier than you thought! Just imagine that this webcam mirror allows you to see and admire yourself as a real mirror, except it works online and displays the “reflection” on your device screen. Still in doubt about its usefulness? If so, please take into account that this feature may be very useful for you in several scenarios, such as: The Flip Mirror itself has got T-2-threads on both ends. For use with Barlow and ADC, it is probably the best if you use T-2-eyepiece clamps on both ports. There are several clamps available: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/eyepiece-clamps.html?filter_threads_lenssided=536 As the position of the ADC should be orientated on the horizon, it is better to use a clamp than to screw it directly onto the FlipMirror without an option to rotate it.
The dimensions of the mirror are such that 36x24mm is reflected. That's quit small to cover the inner 38mm of the 42mm tube system. For more about this, please take a look at this article: https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/blog/using-the-flipmirror-the-correct-working-distances/
The BFM II lets you switch between a straight light path (Position A) for a camera or other measuring instruments and an angled light path (Position B), e.g. Der Flipp Mirror ist ab Werk bereits sehr gut justiert, sodass im Normalfall keine Nachjustierung nötig ist. Hier liegen zwischen dem Baader Flip Mirror und anderen Produkten (auch einfachen Zenitspiegel) Welten und ich habe schon einige gekauft und wieder verkauft! The field stop of the eyepiece and the camera sensor should each be in the same distance from the Flip Mirror. This two stage reducer is capable of speeding up my f/10 C11 to about f/3. For this additional spacers are needed. When used with a Meade natively f/6.3 OTA, then I keep the reduction factor of the assembly at a minimum to get and overall f/3. If I wanted to, I could go down to around f/2.5 without noticeable deterioration of the image on the small 1/3" or 1/2" sensors. Please note that the upper port is restricted by the T-2-thread and the diameter of the diagonal. The usable field is 32mm, equal to our 32mm T-2 prism diagonals.https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/extensions-/-focusing-adapters.html?filter_threads_eyepiecesided=2120 I'm currently started out on starting imaging using my CCD Stella cam, However it's right what many of my mate's suggested, Astrography is not easy at all!!!! Most anodized parts are highly reflective in the near IR. So for IR applications some painting needs to be done. For connection to the telescope, we'd need to know the available thread at the telescope. T-2 or M48 work out of the box, for other threads, an adapter would be required. It’s the center of the three hex bolts on the base with the larger head and recessed into the base. The other end of this bolt protrudes into the case and the mirror rests on it in the down position – thus by adjusting this bolt you can easily adjust the up/down alignment of the camera and eyepiece.
https://www.baader-planetarium.com/en/accessories/adapters-imaging-accessories/2-inch-sc-thread/baader-expansion-ring-2%22at-2i-with-1mm-optical-path-length-(t-2-part-28).html Dark frames are very easy to take by just flipping the mirror to the eyepiece. In fact, I usually take darks, while doing the fine centering of the object in the ep. In the up position the mirror is quite low in the light path. I expect extra vignetting in the case of a full frame sensor. Adjusting left/right alignment took more working out – it’s not described in the Orion manual at all, but there were some references to the Orion mirror on the web that suggested it was possible. On my model if I centered a star on the camera, it was left of center by a bit in the eyepiece, so I was determined to work out how to do this. Do you want to have a flawless look, but you don't have a mirror or it's broken and you don't know how to get out of trouble? This problem can be solved quite easily. Launch the online mirror and tie your tie the best way you can.For a safe fit with the additional 1.25"-fiter, two 1.25"-extensions were necessary, as well as one T-2-extension for the DSLR. to set the eyepiece permanently to the same focus position as the camera. Or you can extend the overall length a bit more with the T-2 Fine-Adjustment ring 1mm (gold) - Aluminium - in the picture the golden 1mm ring was used, other lengths are also available.
In the Orion manual, these are referred to simply for adjusting the arm tension, but it’s more than that. Out of each set of three, the two larger, outer, screws hold up a plate inside the body that the mirror axle pivots on. The center, smaller screw pushes down on the axle. Tension is indeed applied to the axle between the 3 screws, but by loosening the two large screws on one side and tightening the small one between them, you are effectively moving that side of the mirror down slightly. This changes the left/right slant of the mirror and should allow left/right alignment between the eyepiece and camera views. then the camera fits perfectly, but only if we do not use the filter, otherwise the camera would be too far away from the FlipMirror. A standard 1.25" eyepiece usually has got the field stop more or less at the connection between the 1.25" nosepiece and the wider housing. The FlipMirror II Star Diagonal allows a variety of permanent adaptations to your telescope 1 .Use the rotary knob 2to switch between the rear port 3and the top port 4;you can use an optional toothed belt to operate it with a motor (not included). An autoguider or a calibration lamp can be connected to the bottom port 5.
By the way, be careful: Only "real", classic T-rings deliver the flange distance of exactly 55mm. Especially in astronomy there are often slight deviations. T-Rings with an integrated filter holder tend to be a little longer, while other models are extra slim to allow you to reach focus with more accessories. Now, during the global pandemic, when everyone wears a face mask, the online mirror can help you a lot. In situations where you do not have a real mirror, the online mirror helps you to properly arrange the protective mask, carefully covering your mouth and nose. Use our online mirror, arrange your face mask, to be comfortable, but at the same time to be fixed correctly. Wear a protective mask correctly and be healthy! angeht. Hier hatte ich anfänglich zu vorsichtig die beiden Madenschrauben, die den Guiderport am Flippmirror arretieren, festgeschraubt. Nach kurzer Zeit bemerkte ich ein Verkippen der Guidingkamera bzw. des ganzen Off Axis Guiders. Hier darf man ruhig die beiden Schrauben sehr straff anziehen. Sonst wird der Guider nicht fest genug sitzen! Hier wäre m. E. eine Gewindelösung der Schnittstelle angebrachter.
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