On the other hand, there is a person of a young age, ready to take up the knowledge of the old person, but refresh it with something more modern, give it another direction forward, put more energy into action and show the world that he is here, that he is present. Montale Oudmazing opens with an amazing Malaysian oud, bursting with Italian citrus and sweetened with fig and pear. It’s juicy but not gourmand. At the heart of the fragrance are patchouli, orris, and jasmine. Tom Ford's Oud Wood has a special value for me in my life. On the one hand it's because I really love DNA, on the other hand it's also because I found my way into the perfume world with OW. Shelf life is easily 10h and because of the oily consistency you can even enjoy it after a shower ;). Oud is incredibly complex in its raw form, whereas with synthetic oud, you can replicate elements of natural oud you require for use," Schoen explains. The first use of these replicated oud compositions was in YSL M7 in the early 2000s, "but it didn't quite make it into a broader consumer's mind. Oud was a bit of an acquired taste for the western world at that time."

I find a comparison with Oud Wood rather difficult, because the differences are too big & the ONI is much more complex, more powerful ... well, almost gigantic.It doesn’t last long on many people, but it does on me. The saffron and OUD mix quite well. Don’t expect strong projection, people will smell you for sure that you know. It’s a complement getter big time but not outdoors or in big crowds, Oud Satin Mood is a luxurious concoction of creamy vanilla, violet, rose, benzoin, and oud. Despite its delicate notes, it has insane staying power. That’s because Maison Francis Kurkdjian is one of the few luxury perfume houses that use real oud rather than a synthetic compound. As a result, a few spritzes have the power to hang around for 11-12+ hours. It’s one of those colognes that women seem to love and compliment, likely because it steps away from male cologne stereotypes. Oud Satin Mood is the perfect long-lasting fragrance for sultry winter date nights.

Versace pour Homme Oud Noir (2013) is really close to the discontinued Versace Man (2003) to my nose, so much that I believe that one may have been discontinued to give this one some space on the market, and to basically re-market an idea that didn't do so well a decade beforehand with an upscale twist. That upscale twist of course, is the claimed oud note, which in the mostly-Versace-Man-on-steroids build of Versace pour Homme Oud Noir reads like peppery woods a la Creed Royal Oud (2011), after which this may also be chasing. As a downmarket alternative to Royal Oud, I can wholeheartedly recommend Versace pour Homme Oud Noir as well, as the scent really does feel like a mix between it and the erstwhile original Versace Man. It's really just that simple. People compare this to Tom Ford Oud Wood (2007) and I don't see it. It has great projection and as the bitterness starts to subside you will begin to get a stronger leathery scent with some fruitiness and a very smooth oud which is neither medicinal nor skanky at all. It really helps boost the projection which will be great for the time of year we are in. Over the years, as I gradually developed into a true perfume enthusiast, I inevitably came across the ingredient "Oud", which can be found at least once in almost every perfume portfolio of every perfume-producing brand today More and more I was concerned with that ingredient that is loved by some and hated by others; to me it seemed worthy of a glance or a snoop. As a result, I didn't have the "courage" to buy a (designer) fragrance with "Oud" in its name, and certainly not an expensive one from any niche perfumer. So, is there already a synthetic oud fragrance? Yes, and not exactly. "Synthetic oud doesn't really exist per se," Voelkl explains. "But what we do to replicate the smell of natural oud in our fragrances, is create substitutes that are compositions using a combination of other natural [ingredients] and some [synthetic] molecules. I like to use some of these alternatives in my formulas as they are generally 'softer' and less animalic-smelling compared to that of natural oud extract."

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But before I come to the fragrance itself & the description, I would like to talk briefly about the "fake news" that circulates about Fragrance de Bois on the Internet. Indeed, it is claimed that when EdP changed to perfume, fragrances were reformulated, oud oil was no longer used & they had a much worse performance. The scent itself varies considerably depending on the wood used, where the tree was grown and whether the tree itself was cultivated or naturally infected. The fragrance is – unsurprisingly – described as warm and woody with a slight hint of damp rot, while some varieties are smoky and sweet. It can be very potent so not one for the faint-hearted.

The notes will swap places now and again instead of going through one stage and it being gone until the next time you wear it the phases will repeat here and there with some of the notes popping in and out to say hello for a moment and then allowing another to have its time in the light. This goes on for roughly three hours before getting to my favourite part. Oud sourcing has become fraught to keep up with demand. "Due to the very low yield of oud through the traditional extraction process, some have begun to provoke infection on the trees to then cut and extract, and this has all led to these trees becoming scarce," Voelkl explains. He also mentions that it takes at least 25 years for an aquilaria tree to produce harvestable oud. Firmenich works with a family business that manages over 600,000 Aquilaria trees to extract Aquilaria malaccensis using age-old traditional methods. Hundreds of these trees are over 80 years old, while others range from 5 to 50 years old. What about synthetic oud? Now to the scent: That here many cheese smell in the top note is really cheese there is nothing at all. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud Satin Mood is a powdery, floral oud cologne that pushes the boundaries of what it means to be a “masculine” scent. It’s the best oud cologne for men who want something elevated and elegant.The heart is first of all shaped by saffron and then especially by a sweet incense - I love it (!) - I do not perceive cardamom personally. In my experience, incense is more likely to be perceived at a distance, and saffron is more likely to be perceived at close proximity to the skin. Through the present male sweetness (of the incense) this Versace fragrance slowly but steadily becomes warmer and more oriental, the incense, which I perceive until the end, makes him by its mysterious, smoky resinous, but also slightly sweet, effect to a "noir". I give it a 9.5/10 because I am not a huge fan of the bitterness of the saffron but because the fragrance changes so much it is only half a point worth from being a full 10/10 The opening gives me a slightly boozy liquor smell from the Amaretto along with some bitter leathery notes from the saffron.