Artillery Sidewinder X2 3D Printer, SW-X2 Newest Model 95% Pre-Assembled Ultra-Quiet Rapid Heating Dual Z System Filament Runout Detection Resume Printing 300x300x400mm

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The double Z-axis stabilizes the movements of the X-axis and thus of the printhead and helps with positioning accuracy in the Z-direction. This not only improves print quality, but also reduces printing errors caused by vibrations or an imperfectly horizontal X-axis. But even though the Sidewinder X2 has an extremely fast heat-up time due to the AC heating, I would rather trade the fast heat-up time for a slower heat-up time with a homogeneous temperature distribution on the print bed. Noise Level It’s also worth noting that the nozzle quality seems to be improved compared to what we were getting with the Sidewinder X1. Artillery Ruby 32-bit board When calibrating, make sure that you only adjust one retraction value at a time and observe the result. If you change the retraction distance and the speed at the same time, you do not know which change is responsible for the result. Conclusion The Sidewinder X2 reaches a maximum temperature of 240 °C. For most standard filaments this is sufficient, but for some PETG filaments, this could sometimes even be too weak. The heat break between the nozzle and extruder is made of PTFE and starts to dissolve at 240 degrees Celsius.

The slower the printing speed, the better the result. However, this will make printing take longer. The faster the print head moves, the less accurate it will be and printing errors may occur due to vibration. It is therefore important to find the right balance between too fast and too slow. With its predecessor, the Sidewinder X1, it was a popular upgrade to replace the 8-bit motherboard with a 32-bit motherboard. The Sidewinder X2 comes with a 32-bit motherboard, the so-called Artillery Ruby 32-bit Motherboard V1.2. Print speed: 50% of normal print speed (i.e. 25 mm/s at a normal print speed of 50 mm/s); 5-10 mm/s for better print bed adhesionFortunately, the hotend uses a smooth heat break making the disassembly relatively easy, even for a beginner. You just need to unscrew the two grub screws from the extruder, and the hotend will slide out easily. If you want to benefit from better temperatures and less maintenance, then upgrading to a bi-metal or titanium heat break will be my recommended solution. The best variant would be the Copperhead Heat Break from Slice Engineering because it’s well built and won’t cause issues like the really cheap variants. Unfortunately, they don’t have compatible variants right now so you can try the alternatives provided by Trianglelab (smooth) or Mellow (DCrazy). Printer Calibration: Step-by-Step to Perfect Results How to Calibrate the Printing Temperature of the Sidewinder X2 It's the act of p ausing and then resuming using code generated by prusa slicer (best slicer ever by the way 😎 ) which bugs the printer.

The 32-bit motherboard includes slots for the stepper motor drivers, making them easy to replace in the future. There is also more room for upgrades and customization of the software. The new motherboard would theoretically allow you to go wild with customizations to the Marlin software.With its integrated cable design, the visual look is refined and maintenance is significantly simplified. To build Marlin 2.0 you'll need Arduino IDE 1.8.8 or newer or PlatformIO. Detailed build and install instructions are posted at: Extruder: The heatsink is now part of the extruder. This improves cooling considerably compared to the predecessor. The 32-bit motherboard has slots for stepper motor drivers. This allows you to replace the stepper motor drivers if they are defective or replace them with better ones. However, the installed stepper motor drivers are extremely quiet, so an upgrade would not make much sense. Besides the fan system, the quiet stepper motor drivers contribute significantly to the low noise level of the Sidewinder X2. Cast Aluminum Z Slide

The 4 screws with which you fix the frame are already pre-assembled in the 3D printer base and only need to be screwed on. To do this, it is best to place the 3D printer on the edge of a table so that one side protrudes over the edge of the table and you can comfortably turn the screws from below. Printing temperature: Same as the rest of the object or 5-10 °C higher for better print bed adhesion. I like to use the temperature tower from the Calibration Shapes plugin in Cura. But there are also very good objects on portals like Thingiverse. The Issue Queue is reserved for Bug Reports and Feature Requests. To get help with configuration and troubleshooting, please use the following resources: Touch Screen UI: The artillery's touch screen UI is pleasantly colorful, suitably intuitive and responsive.I tried out this feature, of course. To test the resume print feature, I spontaneously unplugged the power cord during printing. After I restored the power after a few minutes, the Sidewinder X2 started 3D printing in the same place. Touchscreen: The operation of the Bluer Plus is simpler and more intuitive than that of the Sidewinder X2. The touchscreen is larger and the menu is simpler. You can find the most important settings faster and the menu structure is not as confusing. Bluer Plus Extruder & Filament Sensor

With Klipper, you can push the print speeds of your 3D printer higher, without any downgrades when it comes to print quality. I wrote a guide on How to Install Klipper on Sidewinder X2: Config and Setup which should guide you trough the process of installing and configuring Klipper on Sidewinder X2. Wrapping up So if you want to print large objects that touch these four places, you should keep this in mind. Especially then it is recommended to work with tools like a raft or adhesives like Magigoo. This problem also existed with its predecessor, the Sidewinder X1. Therefore, the most popular upgrade of the X1 3D printer was to replace the print bed with an aluminum print bed. This gave a homogeneous temperature distribution on the print bed. Double Z-Axis Also with the print bed temperature, a slightly higher temperature than usual is good to increase the print bed adhesion. However, with some filaments, you have to be careful that it does not come to an elephant’s foot and the first layer is widened to the outside. Too high a temperature here could make the filament so fluid that it gives way under the weight of the layers above it. Artillery developed a 32-bit mainboard, which is characterised by its high stability, powerful computing power and great expandability.Replacing the touchscreen with a larger one will be difficult, but there are certainly firmware upgrades/updates that make the handling more comfortable by adjusting the menu. TPU is a flexible filament. Therefore, a few other rules apply here than with PLA and ABS. On the one hand, it is important to use the right extruder for it, on the other hand, some settings have to be chosen correctly to avoid filament jams. A 3D printer profile in Cura is a set of specific settings tailored to a particular 3D printer and filament type. They control things like print speed, layer height, and fan speed. A good profile will result in high-quality prints with minimal errors.