Can you name a ship more famous than the Titanic? Probably not, right? The RMS Titanic is easily the most famous passenger liner ever built. Unfortunately, it’s so famous because it sank on its maiden voyage, causing the death of more than 1500 passengers and crew members.

A great tip to keep in mind is something called the dry brush technique. You apply paint to a brush and then wipe as much of the paint off on a paper towel as possible. Then, you sweep the brush over certain parts of your model, usually the raised details, to apply dynamic highlights that really help a model stand out.For some people, there’s also a possible advantage of this being from the MCP – multi-color parts – line. What that means, is that the various parts are injected in appropriately colored plastic. This means you don’t have to paint the model if you don’t want to. That makes it an ideal kit for absolute beginners. However, I would still recommend painting the model, as it will look so much better. This one is definitely for our confident modellers! Wet blending is a technique which allows you to create a natural gradient, by painting one colour on first and then gently layering a slightly lighter one over the top, before it completely dries. It creates a very realistic illusion of lighting on the model. This definitely requires a deft hand, lots of patience, and plenty of practice as you want the colours to blend together as seamlessly as possible. We recommend trying to wet blend some colours on your palette or another flat surface first, just to see how you get on before trying it on your model. So, is this the perfect Titanic kit? Nope, it’s not, it’s got its share of problems such as some overscale and oversimplified details, but it goes together well. And of course, if you want to bring it to a new level, you can always get some aftermarket accessories. Also put the LED's together for a test. This part got very confusing. The instructions show a piece of copper that you attach a single (yes single) wire to and it acts as a switch. So I connected it all up and sure enough nothing happens. Now my basic electronics knowledge tells me a switch needs two wires in a DC circuit but there just isn't anything with the kit that allows for it. Instructions for lighting below:

Here are the photos, before I get into the details of the kit (This is going to be bandwidth-heavy):You’re a pro at all this by now but humour us. The first step is to assemble your workbench – your mighty modelling station. Your workbench can be anything from a desk to a dining table – you only need to make sure that it’s sturdy enough and a place no one will mind if you spill some glue or paint. I've decided to start this one alongside my GB builds. I wasn't going to create a WIP thread but I thought it may help me keep focused. So a sigh of relief on that one and a trap for young players if anyone else gets this kit. I saw the other bloke put alfoil in his hull to improve the lighting, I'll do the same, good idea I thought. A beloved technique of many modellers is edge highlighting, where you go in with lighter colours and brush them along the edges of certain points on your figure (where the sun might hit a person). This is a great way of breathing life into your models and giving them an element of realism. Painting models is always a learning process though, even for the pros, so never be afraid to make a mistake or two!

There are many things in the build I know I could have done better in or rushed too much in; but after many months of work I'm just satisfied to call it done for now. Maybe I'll be able to build something closer to the real thing in the future.We also recommend a reliable chair and a good supply of paper towels to be ready for spills and any excess paint. Once your decal is separated from the sheet, you place it in some warm water (almost like those temporary tattoos you used to get as a child). We recommend warm water as opposed to cold to help the decal slide off the remaining cardboard without any issues. The Titanic has been attracting modelers for decades. Many different plastic scale model kits of the Titanic have been released so far. Their quality, of course, varies widely. Today we will be looking at some of the best titanic model kits available on the market. Just like any other ship model kit, there are scales to choose from. For ship modelers, or at least for those focusing on passenger liners, the most popular scales are the 1/350, 1/400, and 1/700 scales. Keep in mind, that the Titanic was a huge beast with a length of 882 feet (269 meters). In the 1/400 scale, that means you’re going to end up with a 2.2 feet (67 cm) long model. So, unless you’ve got a lot of space, it might be a wise decision to go for a smaller kit. Did I tell you there’s also a huge 1/200 scale Titanic kit? Ok, let’s cut to the chase and look at the recommended Titanic kits now. Product Name

Two things jumped out at me - its one of those fancy touch buttons that react to skin touching them and there are some markings on the circuit board for which end goes to battery box and LED's. I of course had them the wrong way round, but it wasn't pointed out in the instructions that came with the box. As soon as I fixed that, i touched the button and presto.. instant lighting!!! It’s difficult to say which kit is the best Titanic kit in the 1/700 scale. If I had to choose one kit I would probably get this one. Although the details of all the kits are very similar, and none of them are perfect, this one has one big advantage over the competition. The advantage is the inclusion of LED lights, which can be installed inside the model. Turn the LED lights on at night and the model will look awesome. Now about your tools, this is going to differ a little from previous articles. The most important part of setting yourself up for an advanced build (and for success), is securing the right lighting. Good lighting works fine for a Starter Kit type of build, but if you’re looking to improve on the next one, you need stellar lighting. This is to ensure that you don’t miss an important detail during the painting process, as poor lighting can lead to unfortunate mistakes which often aren’t caught until you think you’re finished. As for the type of lighting, try to avoid warm, incandescent lighting as this doesn’t show colours as accurately as a neutral, white LED lamp does.

Airfix | No. A50146A | 1:400

A fine detail brush is important for painting the majority of smaller details on a model. They are ideal to catch the bits that a larger brush can’t handle with as much grace and sophistication. They’re also essential for steady-hand techniques such as edge-highlighting. I built the 1:700 (with lights) last year and it's the only model my wife has ever wanted out on display. My sister recently saw it and asked if I'd build her one too. I then decided she could have the 1:700 and I'm now replacing it with the 1:400 for my wife (no pressure!!!!) I also built the Meng Toon version a couple of weeks ago. That only took a day and was a lot of fun though it never made the mantelpiece This is the giftset of the Titanic brought out for the 100th Anniversary. I'm pleased to have finished this today and it seems hard to believe that precisely 100 years ago the passengers of the Titanic were steaming across the Atlantic without a care or a worry. How tragically it would all end... Anyway, on to the kit. This is a re-box of the Academy kit and it's an excellent bit of plastic. Those of you who have seen my builds before will know I build aircraft almost always. This is a rare attempt at a floaty thing for me and I'm sure a better job could be made by someone with more expertise and experience!