I planned to sell this machine when I'm done with the barn, but I might have to keep it just because it is so well engineered. I am not looking for a chain mortiser, I am looking for the type with a frame to hold the post and the guide bar attachment on the saw to do the mortises.

I have tried it with my little Stihl MS 171 and it's not as scary as you'd think but I wouldn't advise it if you're not 110% comfortable with a chainsaw. This is the ideal tool for small to medium size timber frame companies, while being simple enough to operate for the "do-it-yourself" home builders.

I am considering just a machine as drilling and chiseling mortises in White Oak is hard (lumber pun). I finally broke down and bought the Makita last year when I was building my own project I have used them off and on for years and never had a problem with the Makita mortiser .

Although they had a chainsaw, trying to cut a mortise with it by hand turned out to be super dangerous because the chainsaw would kick up every time the tip of the blade touched the wood.

mortise it would be easier to do two chops with the slightly wider chain than three with the standard 11/16″ chain. If you wouldn't mind, you should fill out your signature more with your location and other items like what equipment you have.

Some of our supplier's literature/videos may display optional features which aren't always available on our equipment. I think I will hire the Makita one for a day anyway and see of the clamp and plunge system is better than the Festool method. We illustrte in our present issue a machine which has apt I y been said to be an invention as revolutionary as that of the band saw. I'm building a timber frame barn and was contemplating cutting all of the joinery by hand (I have a lot of very good quality framing chisels, Japanese saws, etc.KISS, at least with a chisel and a fostener bit you are in control and if it goes wrong you stand a good chance of making it all right. with two outside teeth and a clearance space bet ween, others with two intermediate spaces with clearance spaces outside and between, others with a single central tooth. The main thing is really the impracticality of getting a 200kg piece of 200 x 200 oak into a position to be morticed. It is obvious that, if the chain is rotated in the proper direction, the edges of the teeth will cut their way through a piece of wood.

You could do it the old fashioned way with a drill and chisel or a boring machine, but it would be more time consuming. This is a pretty ingenious build that only cost a little effort and will end up saving a bunch of time mortising countless fence posts. Works fine and is easy on oak (easier than douglas) once you get the method it's fairly quick to do. To use the attachment place the sharpened tynes onto the timber and engage full throttle - peak revs. Our machinery range includes, lathes, bandsaws, table saws, spindle moulders, planers and thicknessers and pillar drills as well as dust extractors, welders and water pumps.

I mean say you have one at the top of your post and one half way down in another position is there an easy way to mark this out so it lines up perfect. The team had some parts kicking around so they made a fixture to hold the chainsaw as it is plunged into the 4×4’s. From the front of the base projects a foot lever, by which the belts are shifted back and forth, a very ingenious arragement of parallel motion levers being employed at the inner end of the foot lever.