When doing clean outs and color changes I spray leftover paint, cleaner and water into one of these Iwata Medea airbrush cleaning stations. Just as a wee sideline to this I have started using Interdental Brushes from my pharmacy to deep clean my airbrush. Found there was a blob of paint very visible on the needle part way through spraying, 2 parts paint 1 part X20 thinners 20 psi. even the paint reservoir and a cotton bud took some effort, doesnt look like it did when it was brand new just prior to this test.

To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. My one caution is that if you use a generic or household cleaning product, make sure you’re using one that does not have ammonia as a component.For cleaning out the brush, after every session, I use Spraycraft or Liquid Reamer cleaner from an aerosol can. Although it is a quick-setting cement, it still allows for some minor alignment corrections after the cement is applied.

and whats the cause of that paint blob on the needle, this was simple medium size spray pattern, just laying colour down. Of course, it is not always possible to do it this way but the method works fine for fuselage halves which are sometimes prone to this problem. There’s really no reason to use such spendy cleaners in your airbrush when a readily available and much cheaper substitute can be used. While you can certainly use other cleaning agents in your airbrush, I like good ‘ol windshield washer fluid the best because it’s cheap and you can find it almost anywhere.The Quick Setting Extra Thin Cement cannot be used this way because it evaporates almost instantly giving you no chance to attach the parts where they belong. Now and then, depending on how much painting I am doing, I will remove the spray head and clean it out using an airbrush cleaning small wire brush.

If you use Windex, make sure that you wash it out thoroughly, as the ammonia can damage the chrome in the a/b. This is due to the fact that the cement essentially melts the plastic and the parts fuse together once the chemicals evaporate.

With traditional liquid cement, you would apply the cement to a part and then you would attach it where it belongs. If you leave the glued parts alone long enough before handling them again, the bond is very strong and it is in fact almost impossible to cleanly separate them again. One problem I had was the garage door which fitted in only various places allowing wind thro agitating dust.

Since manhandling a gallon size bottle is tricky, I manage this by transferring the cleaner and water to a couple of these LDPE wash bottles with the hook nozzles. The original Extra Thin cement usually takes a couple of minutes to set and hours to days to completely cure. I use both Tamiya and Xtracrylic thinners all the time - mostly Xtracrylic thinner - and that works well for me in making the Tamiya flow well through the brush.I found that Tamiya Airbrush cleaner is good, but it still tended to leave traces of paint in the sleeve, but the Acetone cleans it up shiny shiny. Make sure you have enough ventilation in the room where you are planning to build models as the cement can easily cause headaches for some people.